The cosmetics market is restructuring around new regulatory constraints and a profound reformulation of products. Brands that claimed “clean” or “natural” formulas without scientific proof are facing an increasingly stringent European legal framework, while restrictions on microplastics are altering the very composition of skincare and makeup.
Microplastics Restrictions: What Changes in Cosmetic Formulation
The European Union adopted in 2023 a wide-ranging restriction on intentionally added microplastics in cosmetic products. Scrubs, shower gels, foundations, loose powders: any formula containing microbeads or certain synthetic polymers falls under this regulation, with a phased ban by the end of the decade.
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This constraint affects product categories that consumers rarely associate with plastics. Texture agents in makeup, active ingredient capsules in serums, exfoliating particles in facial cleansers: all components are being reformulated or substituted.
Manufacturers are turning to alternatives such as fruit pit powders, plant waxes, or certified biodegradable polymers. The cost of reformulation is reflected in prices, particularly in the budget skincare and body care segment. Following Cosmétiques Beauté news helps identify brands that have already completed this transition and those still benefiting from grace periods.
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At the same time, several regions around the world (Hawaii, Palau, certain U.S. states) have banned or heavily restricted UV filters like oxybenzone and octinoxate due to their impact on coral reefs. This pressure is accelerating the development of new generation mineral filters, which are more stable and less whitening than traditional zinc oxide.
“Clean Beauty” Claims and the Green Claims Directive: The End of Marketing Ambiguity
Since 2023, the European Commission has been working on the so-called Green Claims directive, aimed at regulating environmental claims on all consumer products, including cosmetics. Terms like “natural,” “eco-friendly,” “non-toxic,” or “chemical-free” must be scientifically proven and verified by a third party.
The change is structural. A brand claiming “95% natural origin ingredients” will need to document the calculation method, specify whether this percentage refers to weight, volume, or number of ingredients, and make this data accessible. The penalties for non-compliance fall under misleading commercial practices.
For consumers, this directive will clarify a landscape where private labels (Cosmos, Ecocert, Natrue) coexist with self-declarations without oversight. Brands will need to prove every environmental claim, which should reduce the number of vague mentions on packaging.
Which Terms Are Affected on Labels
- “Clean,” “green,” “eco-friendly”: prohibited without proof of biodegradability or documented carbon footprint
- “Paraben-free,” “sulfate-free”: allowed only if the mention does not imply that these ingredients are dangerous in other compliant products
- “Natural” or “of natural origin”: requires a standardized calculation reference, not just a self-declared percentage
- “Vegan” and “cruelty-free”: must rely on recognized certification, not just a manufacturer’s statement
Skinimalism and Short Routines: What the “Less is More” Trend Represents
The proliferation of steps in skincare routines (double cleansing, toner, serum, essence, cream, SPF) has reached a saturation point. The trend of skinimalism reflects a return to routines reduced to three or four products, chosen for their versatility.
A survey conducted among members of Le Club Veepee, with over a thousand participants, confirms this direction: the majority of respondents prioritize quality over quantity in their skincare selection.
This simplification benefits hybrid products. Tinted creams with integrated SPF, serums combining multiple actives (niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, for example), multifunctional cleansing balms are gaining ground on the shelves.
Consequences for Brands and Retailers
Skinimalism mechanically reduces the number of references purchased per consumer. Brands compensate by increasing the perceived value of each product: larger formats, concentrated actives, refillable packaging. Retailers, in turn, are reorganizing their shelves around “typical routines” rather than traditional product categories.
Green Biotechnology and New Cosmetic Actives
Biotechnology applied to cosmetics allows for the production of actives through fermentation or cell culture, without massive extraction of plant resources. Fermented plant-derived squalane, biomimetic peptides, and extracts obtained from cultured cells of rare plants are gradually replacing traditional actives.
The benefits are twofold. Fermentation produces purer and more concentrated molecules than traditional extraction while reducing pressure on ecosystems. A rare plant no longer needs to be harvested en masse if its cells are cultivated in a bioreactor.
- Bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative to retinol, is now produced through fermentation to stabilize its concentration
- Biomimetic collagen peptides replicate the effect of marine collagen without resorting to fishing
- Topical probiotics cultivated in the lab target the skin microbiome with increased precision
These innovations are first found in premium ranges, but several mass-market brands are beginning to incorporate fermented actives into their serums and moisturizers at mid-range prices. Green biotechnology is no longer reserved for luxury.
The cosmetic sector is entering a phase where European regulation is reshaping the contours of what can be formulated, claimed, and sold. Brands that anticipate these constraints by reformulating their products and documenting their claims are gaining an advantage that laggards will struggle to catch up on once the regulations are fully applicable.